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Disconnecting each plug lead in turn should locate the faulty cylinder, when you get a double beat in the exhaust it's not that cylinder, when you get a single beat but more pronounced it will be that cylinder.

A little more difficult to determine which inlet valve is at fault using this method though.

a sound engine, fumes aren't lost to atmosphere from any other place like oil seals and gaskets, but are burnt in the engine.

If a low cylinder doesn't increase from the dry to the wet that indicates valve problems, although this is generally accompanied by a regular beat in the exhaust or intake, indicating an exhaust or intake valve respectively.One tip may be to disconnect the fuel pump and run the carbs dry before starting the test, i.e. I say this because although I have had my Gunson's compression gauge for about fifteen years I can't have used it more than ten times in that period, and yet when I lent it to a neighbour recently it wouldn't hold the pressure, because the hose had perished right by the brass fitting that screws into the plug hole.It was fine just 1/2" back from there, so I trimmed it back and secured it with a clamp and it is working again, but it did make me wonder if it had sucked fuel in during the test (throttle wide open remember) and that had perished the hose.June 2014 After 25 years I've done a compression test on Bee prior to changing the head gasket due to combustion gases in the radiator.1, 3 and 4 were 160 to 173psi dry, 173 to 185psi wet. The dry to wet increase is pretty-much the same for all, so bores look OK, but I need to check the valves to see if that's the cause of 2 being low, or whether it is something else.For engines where one or more cylinders are low go round the cylinders again putting a teaspoonful of oil into each immediately before testing it, this is a 'wet' test.